St. Paul Island - June 14-18, 2014
   
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In June 2014 I flew to St. Paul Island, situated in the Bering Sea between the USA and Russia. St. Paul, the largest of the Pribilof Islands, is a volcanic mass with a land area of 100 km2. St. Paul Island was discovered by Russian explorers in 1788. Russian fur traders later established a settlement on the island, and brought native Siberian and Aleutian people there as slaves to work with fur seal skins which the traders sold for a great deal of money.

Today about 500 Alaska natives live there, and the island serve as an important base for the Bering Sea crab fisheries. Large colonies of Northern fur seals and rich seabird cliffs make the island teem with life. More than 2.7 million seabirds, ranging from common murres and crested auklets to tufted puffins and cormorants, nest on the Pribilofs, making it the largest seabird colony in the Northern Hemisphere. The island is a popular destination for North American birders, especially since it often receives Eurasian species rare in North America. It is therefore a favored destination for hardcore birders coming there to tick off their checklists. As a non-birder, I came mainly for seabird photography. I bought my trip through TDX, a company operated by the natives. Although expensive, it was very interesting to visit this Arctic island with its polar climate and exotic wildlife. TDX offered excellent guides who drove us around the island for more than 12 hours a day ensuring extensive birding on the “Galapagos of the North” as it is also called.

Some early-blooming St. Paul Island wildflowers can be seen here.

 

Crested Auklet (Aethia cristatella)

 

Crested Auklets (Aethia cristatella)

Parakeet Auklet (Aethia psittacula)

 

Parakeet Auklet (Aethia psittacula)

Least Auklet (Aethia pusilla)

 

Least Auklet (Aethia pusilla)

Horned Puffin (Fratercula corniculata)

 

Horned Puffin (Fratercula corniculata)

Tufted Puffin (Fratercula cirrhata)

 

Tufted Puffin (Fratercula cirrhata)

Thick-billed Murre (Uria lomvia). Much more common on St. Paul Island than Common Murre

 

Thick-billed Murre (Uria lomvia), This species is called Brünnich's guillemot in Europe

Common Murre (Uria aalge)

 

Common Murre (Uria aalge)

Red-faced Cormorant (Phalacrocorax urile)

 

Red-faced Cormorant (Phalacrocorax urile)

Red-legged Kittiwake (Rissa brevirostris)

 

Red-legged Kittiwake (Rissa brevirostris)

Northern Fulmar, dark morph (Fulmarus glacialis)

 

Northern Fulmar, light morph (Fulmarus glacialis)

Harlequin Duck (Histrionicus histrionicus)

 

Rock Sandpiper (Calidris ptilocnemis)

Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch (Leucosticte tephrocotis)

 


Black-legged Kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla)

St. Paul village

 

Bird cliffs, St. Paul Island

Russian orthodox church

 

Trident factory, where we had all our meals. The food was very good, by the way

Arctic Fox (Vulpes lagopus)

 

Arctic Fox (Vulpes lagopus)

Northern Fur Seal (Callorhinus ursinus) bull

 

Northern Fur Seal colony. Only males were onshore at this period

Northern Fur Seal bulls

 

The bulls can weigh up to 275 kg, and can be dangerous for people coming too close

Pacific Harbor Seal (Phoca vitulina ssp. richardsi)

 

Semi-palmated Plover (Charadrius semipalmatus)

Blue lupine (Lupinus sp.) completely dominated the landscape on St. Paul Island

 

Arctic poppy (Papaver alaskanum)

Andrew, Glenn (TDX guide), and me in front of crab pods

 

Bird cliff photography

St. Paul Airport terminal AND hotel entrance (King Eider Hotel). Quite basic. For example, no running water or restrooms in the hotel rooms

 

Rough weather. It was rainy, windy and foggy most of the time I spent on the island. Not ideal condition for photography. But according to the guides, this was normal local weather

St. Paul Island birding. Here looking for that Oriental Cuckoo the very first day. We spent the entire first day looking for two cuckoo species. The first one was the Common Cuckoo, which I have seen plenty of in Norway (and which we ultimately caught up with in the quarry). Driving and running around for 5 hours the first day looking for cuckoo's made me a bit sceptical. Was this what I had spent all that money for? Luckily, from day 2, when I was put together with a couple from Washington DC, who were also interested in photography, things became better. Nothing bad to say about the birders I spent the first day with, they were all great fellow travellers. Four full days at St. Paul Island was probably too much anyway, as the summer weather can remain overcast for weeks. And for the "lifers" (I hoped to see the snowy owl there), the best seasons are spring and autumn

 

Scott, one of the TDX guides. The TDX guides were very committed and provided excellent service

     

List of birds I saw on St. Paul Island

ANSERIFORMES: Anatidae
1 Cackling Goose Branta hutchinsii  
2 Tundra Swan (+ Bewick's swan) Cygnus columbianus  
3 Northern Pintail Anas acuta  
4 Green-winged Teal Anas crecca  
5 Greater Scaup Aythya marila  
6 King Eider Somateria spectabilis  
7 Harlequin Duck Histrionicus histrionicus  
8 Long-tailed Duck Clangula hyemalis Vulnerable
9 Bufflehead Bucephala albeola  
10 Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator  
GAVIIFORMES: Gaviidae
11 Pacific Loon Gavia pacifica  
12 Common Loon Gavia immer  
13 Yellow-billed Loon Gavia adamsii Near-threatened
PROCELLARIIFORMES: Procellariidae
14 Northern Fulmar Fulmarus glacialis  
15 Short-tailed Shearwater Puffinus tenuirostris  
SULIFORMES: Phalacrocoracidae
16 Double-crested Cormorant Phalacrocorax auritus  
17 Red-faced Cormorant Phalacrocorax urile  
18 Pelagic Cormorant Phalacrocorax pelagicus  
ACCIPITRIFORMES: Accipitridae
19 Bald Eagle Haliaeetus leucocephalus  
CHARADRIIFORMES: Charadriidae
20 Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus  
CHARADRIIFORMES: Scolopacidae
21 Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres  
22 Ruff Calidris pugnax Rare/Accidental
23 Rock Sandpiper Calidris ptilocnemis  
24 Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus  
25 Red Phalarope Phalaropus fulicarius  
CHARADRIIFORMES: Stercorariidae
26 Pomarine Jaeger Stercorarius pomarinus  
CHARADRIIFORMES: Alcidae
27 Common Murre Uria aalge  
28 Thick-billed Murre Uria lomvia  
29 Parakeet Auklet Aethia psittacula  
30 Least Auklet Aethia pusilla  
31 Crested Auklet Aethia cristatella  
32 Horned Puffin Fratercula corniculata  
33 Tufted Puffin Fratercula cirrhata  
CHARADRIIFORMES: Laridae
34 Black-legged Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla  
35 Red-legged Kittiwake Rissa brevirostris Vulnerable
36 Glaucous-winged Gull Larus glaucescens  
CUCULIFORMES: Cuculidae
37 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Rare/Accidental
38 Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus optatus Rare/Accidental
PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae
39 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Rare/Accidental
PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae
40 Siberian Rubythroat Calliope calliope  
PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae
41 Eastern Yellow Wagtail Motacilla tschutschensis  
PASSERIFORMES: Calcariidae
42 Lapland Longspur Calcarius lapponicus  
43 Snow Bunting Plectrophenax nivalis  
PASSERIFORMES: Fringillidae
44 Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch Leucosticte tephrocotis  
45 Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus Rare/Accidental
46 Common Redpoll Acanthis flammea  
 

Lapland Longspur (Calcarius lapponicus)

Here is the Oriental Cuckoo (Cuculus optatus) we were searching for the first day